July 13, 2008

When I had been planning this trip I had known that Bastille Day was a holiday and that the locks would be closed, but I really put no thought into it other than we should spend it in Auxerre as it was a big city and should have lots to do. So the day that follows was a fortuitous choice rather than a planned one.

We got up in the AM and cast off heading to Auxerre.  We’d barely gone a kilometer before we left the Canal de Nivernais and entered the Yonne river proper, where we were to stay for the rest of  the trip (except for a few side canals with locks). We had company most of the way, motoring along nose to tail. I know now that it was because most people had the same plan as we did and were trying to get to Auxerre early and beat the rush. As we motored along it became apparent were leaving the countryside and heading to an urban center and the shifting nature of the canal banks reflected that. There were more (and larger) bridges, riverside homes and mansions and lots of well kept grounds. The bridges were so large that they had multiple spans, and it was important to check the guide book — and the bridges themselves — to see which spans you were supposed to go under. This became even more important as we approached the city itself.

As we exited the last lock, the area had turned distinctly industrial and then, moments later, we turned a bend and saw a huge church rising above us on the left bank. Then we tore our eyes away and saw dozens of boats tied up along the right bank and more milling about.

We slowed down and watched for a bit, trying to scope the situation out. The left bank was empty and had lots of room, but the right bank had boats rafted 4 or 5 deep. I think we eventually pulled up to the docks by the harbourmaster’s office on the right bank and were told to wait.  Anyway a pilot eventually boarded and took us off into the melee and tied us up 4th out from the docks and then hurried off to take care of yet one more of the ever increasing number of boats arriving.

That’s us, 4 out, with our neighbours for the next day or so.

It was still cloudy, dreary weather and raining intermittently, but we geared up (C had even brought an umbrella) and wandered down to one of the bridges to explore. There were three major churches here, but I wanted to leave them until tomorrow. There were some great views from the bridges and man, were there a lot of boats. We wandered around for a while and then settled on a place for dinner. It was a good meal, the highlight of which was C trying the Escargot de Bourgogne, which is escargot (snails) in a parsley butter and white wine sauce, complete with shells. I had grown up with my Mom’s buttery escargot goodness, but this was a first for C. The look of scepticism on her face was priceless. But she ate them and declared them good.

Back on our side of the river, the open area by the docks had filled up and there was a stage with music and fun. Further down there was an area set aside for small fireworks and a ton of pyromaniacs-in-training were setting them off and making Zak jealous. We wandered back to the stage and spent an hour or so drinking in the festive mood and watching a choreographed, karaoke sort-of-thing to all the greatest Abba and Madonna hits, complete with light show. A great time was had by all.

As the evening wore on we eventually settled in back on the upper deck of our boat with some Chablis and watched the lights of the city. We had discovered why the left back was empty of boats; it was because there were to be fireworks and we had the best seat in the house. Seriously, they were right over our heads. We found out later that Auxerre has some of the biggest Bastille Day fireworks in France. Best show I’ve ever seen. And a grand and glorious end to a great day.