macblaze.ca

The morning started with the girls ordering my breakfast of the previous day. These are the best and biggest damn French toast I have ever seen. The weather was clear and warm so we knew we were a go. After arriving at the seaplane base we packed up with ever conceivable piece of gear we thought we’d need including full wet and cold– all unnecessary as it was one of the most beautiful days we’d experienced since leaving Squamish.

A quick orientation about life jackets and an introduction to Steve our pilot found us down by the docks and boarding a 1957 deHavilland Beaver; one of the best bush planes ever produced and Canadian to boot. Another orientation about doors and life vests ( quite similar to the one you get on a 767, but oddly eerier on a 6 person, 50 year old float plane about to cross 90 miles of ocean.

The flight over was unremarkable except for the start when Steve tried to fly low over a channel to look for whales and flew straight into a cloud bank. As we were between two mountainous island s he had bank and climb rather drastically at 120 kits to get above the clouds for the rest of the trip: about 1200 feet until we approached Haida Gwaii (the new name for the Queen Charlottes for those who don’t know).

Our first approach to Skedans was aborted as the pilot tried to bring us in close but the water was too choppy. He added some throttle, pulled back on the stick and banked right to try again. 2nd try he landed farther in to the bay and we touched down smoothly.

Skedans is an old Haida village abandoned in the late 1800s after smallpox etc decimated most of the islands population. The Watchmen (native guides) gave us a tour and a handbook full of pictures from the 1880s that showed what the poles etc. Had looked like. They are pretty well gone now and another 10 or 15 years will probably remove the last traces.

We had about an hour and half there which was really not enough time to soak it in. But they limit the visitors to a max of twelve and there was a boat just coming in. Steve brought the plane back into shore and we climbed aboard the back of the floats and on board. Once agin we were into the air. These beavers have an amazingly short takeoff, which is what made them a great bush plane.

10 minutes later we circled in around Hot Spring Island (Gandll K’in Gwaay. Yaay ) and landed right in the cove. After we slid up on shore we grabbed out gear and hiked for about 10 minutes through rainforest until we reached the Watchmen’s cabin. He showed us the change room and left Les and I to change. Steve had to head back to the plane because the mooring was fouled with seaweed and Carmen hadn’t brought a suit (unfortunately there were signs against nude bathing).

The watchmen returned and showed us the 3 natural pools. The first was 105 to 107 degrees and we left it to last. The next was right by the ocean and we tried it second. It had the benefit of allowing you a dip in the cold sea between hot dips. I tried it but Leslie abstained. The third pool was up on the cliffs and afforded a spectacular view. We soaked here longest and enjoyed the scenery. The guide mentioned soaking her in the evenings and watching humpbacks breach.

Boiled and done we packed up and tromped back to the plane thought the woods. A beautiful experience.

The flight back was mostly at 100-200 ft over the waves. We didn’t see any whales unfortunately but it was a wondrous experience. As we approached the coastal islands the clouds formed again and we brought the plane back up to 1500 feet. A short time later we were over Prince Rupert and circling back over the seaplane cove. Steve dove on one of his fellow pilots trying to beet him to dock but the other fellow was already lower and dive as he might, Steve was beaten to the water.

A short cruise to the dock and we were all clambering ashore. We bid our pilot adieu and jumped in the truck to head for celebratory beer. It was a stunning day and the only thing that could of made it better was for it to have been longer. Dinner was at Breakers Pub, where L made the mistake of ordering the rock fish dinner special. It came to the table and was approximately the size of her torso.

At this point beer ensued with lime Mikes for Leslie. Carmen abstained. We took her temperature, but her nose was cold so we figured it must some sort of psychological aberration. After Leslie had done away with her mammoth fish, we crawled home to early bed and a quick shower.

Apparently Carmen also got up in the middle of the night to buy nail clippers but she didn’t die… At least afaik… I may have been traveling with a zombie all day… Can’t really tell…

So stay tuned to see if I decide to try again…

Version 2

Stupid app lost my long and witty diatribe and now I am pissed; so you get the condenseed version. The morning started with C violating a pancake with peanut butter and jam. I refrained from punishing her but I have go admit that I was sorely tempted… It really was just wrong.

Out next stop was Inland Air and a date with a Beaver. I forgot my jacket so we left C behind and went back tom the hotel. On the way back we saw a lovely black tailed deer and her two fawns. Momma had them all lined up at the crosswalk, looking both ways.

By the time we got back a gale warning had been posted and our trip was put off for a day. Since we’d been warned to lay off e dangerous activities by someone’s mom, we decided to try Pacific Cannery instead and maybe Butze Rapids. Unfortunately for the unnamed mom, the first thing we saw at the cannery was this:

Sorry Mrs. H, we tried. This salmon cannery dates back from the late 1800’s when they existed all the way from California to Alaska. It was an awesome museum and well worth the visit. One of the machines was called unpolitical-correctly an Iron Chink because it replaced so many Chinese workers. Coincidentlaly, Carmen seemed to have a problem with the Chinese guide there, but she claimed it was more to do with his excessively over exuberant personality… But I have pictures…

After the cannery we drove back towards Prince Rupert and stopped off at Butze Rapids. About 5 klicks, lots of differing terrain, huckleberries and no wolves, it was a great hike and while the rapids were not at there peak (you need high or low tide) it was definitely a plus.

We finished our day at the pub and tried a new beer, Okanogan Black. Cold and delicious. One of those sent us home and off to bed.

Starting at 7:45, Prince Rupert Adventure Tours took us on a trip aboard their 100 person catamaran to the Khutzeymateen Inlet and the Khutzeymateen Grizzly bear sanctuary. It was about 1.5 hour boat in to this long fjord that is home to over 50 grizzlies. The steep valley walls and sandy beaches conspire to create excellent viewing of bears in their natural habitat. We saw a couple if eagles and seals on the way in and listen to the tourists mistake jumping salmon for whales.

As we slowed into the fjord, the scenery was awesome and as the guide announce spotting the first bear we all crowded to the outside decks. I never would have believed we could get so close. The first bear meandered around eating grass and we all oohed and awed for half an hour.

The next bear was walking around in a creek bed and the third bear (the biggest of the bunch) decided to wander down tot he shore and show off for Carmen. Needless to say she was completely taken in by his shenanigans and she is currently planning renovations to the condo to accommodate a new companion: bearhugs anyone?

This bear decided a bath was is order. He tromped down to the water and waded in. After splashing around he rolled over and waved his massive paws in the air. This was the point that C was irrevocably hooked. Pedro, if you are reading this, be afraid… be very afraid. Thar’s a bear comin’ to town.

But soon it was time to head home. The captain revved up the motors and we were screaming across the waves towards home.

Leslie:

Saw a seagull
Standing on a log
Floating though the channel

On the way home, the captain stopped in the channel outside the harbor to try and entice some eagles. They through some meat in the water and soon 6 to 8 bald eagles were swooping and diving in the water beside the boat. I never got a picture with the cell phone but I think I got some awesome shots with the camera… No blog pictures though.

Afterwards we walked up to the museum again and Carmen bought herself a spirit ring. There were no bears so she settled for an eagle. But lovely nonetheless.

After we checked into out hotel we headed down to Smiles for fresh seafood. Poached halibut, scallops and charbroiled salmon were on the menu. Very very large portions! Someone ( of the feminine persuasion) had to go to the washroom and left their reading brain at the table. Much to my surprise she came waltzing out from under the Men’s sign complaining about how ‘scary’ the washrooms was. Hmmmmmmm.

I guess no on really does ‘read this crap.’

Anyway after dinner, we walked the docks and admired the yachts. A washroom break in the pub turned into another beer (or Pomtini’s for the girly girls) and eventually we staggered out into the light. A stop at the Cow Bay Spirits produced some wine and the evening ended in the room, blogging, yakking and yattering.

Morning for us started better than morning for our waitresses. Apparently someone slept in and they were overworked and irate.

Eventually we were all up and fed, but with the lazy sleepers-inners, it was late morning before we were off.

A sign down in the seaplane cove.

First things first and we headed off to the seaplane base to see if that was in the cards. We wanted to see bears, whales, the Queen Charlottes and anything else interesting. After a lovely chat and a walk around we came to the conclusion that we either took the ferry to the Charlottes right away as travel time would eat up two days or we gave up on it and headed home slowly. OR… We could spend a shit-ton of money to charter a floatplane to take us there for a day trip. Guess which choice we made…

We walked down to the Coast Guard base to see what was up and had a lovely chat with the gate guard. He showed us some pics and gave us some gossip and we walked back to the truck. A little bit later a chinook helicopter came winging in and landed at the base.

That done with we headed to the info booth which was in the museum. There we decided on the next couple of days activities and toured the exhibits. We saw awesome basket weaving with cedar bark, carvings and bent cedar boxes, which are boxes made from 1plank of cedar that is steamed and bent into a seamless box.

After the museum we walked down to Cow Bay where there were shops and tours. Leslie decided we needed to see bears so she booked a tour for the following day. 6 hours on a boat… Woot. After a bit of a wander we decided to eat. The Japanese place wasn’t open yet so the girls grabbed a berry crisp to tide them over and we went for a drive to charge some batteries and see the sights.

We found Butze trail which is scheduled for later in the week and generally mapped out the town. Then we had some truly truly fresh sushi (with a delicious miso for the chilly Carmen).

The handy dandy smart phones gave us information on the movies in town and we decides to take in Inception: awesome changing gravity fight scene! Afterwards we got some advice from the hotel clerk on a nice lounge and walked for a beer. Then it was bed time cause tomorrow’s bears were coming early.

The morning started early. I think C was in the shower by 4. Eventually we all started to crawl out of bed and I grabbed a quick shower cause there was time. While the girls primped and flattened, I packed the truck and generally made antsy noises.

At exactly 5:15 we pulled out and headed for the ferry. Somewhere along they way Boingy Bunny settled in for a snuggle with the Chalkbag bunny, and they are still going at it.

After being asked for our ID about fifty bazillion times we finally pulled into the ferry though a bow door that lifted vertically.

The Northern Expedition is a recent addition to the fleet. It was built in Germany late 2008 to replace the ferry that sank a few years back. It traveled from Germany via the Panama Canal in spring 2009 and was in service by May.

I’d gotten a cabin in case we wanted to rest (which Leslie is doing right now) and it was fitted out with bathroom, shower, tv and more.

The sail started out with a sunny dawn breaking though clouds in the east. The ferry hustles along as Leslie and I explored the ship. Eventually we ate breakfast at 7 and as we finished up the ship backed out and into Port Hardy’s harbour.

Another roam around the ship decided us on the aft sundeck on deck 6 as our home and we met up with Carmen and camped ourselves in the morning sun. Eventually it clouded over but it was pleasant while it lasted.

By noon we’d spotted an orca, a few far off whales and the girls saw a humpback dive right in front of them. The ship reversed course for a scheduled man-overboard drill that had a slightly comical twist to it when the rescue boat failed to start a bobbed pathetically along side. Eventually though they got it going and the dummy was saved after all.

Right after that the bridge announced humpbacks breaching about 3 miles ahead off the starboard bow. We could see the splashes with the naked eye and as we got closer, the binoculars provided an excellent show. It was mostly a big cow splashing around with her fins and her calf exuberantly breaching alongside. This went on for 5 or 10 minutes and the captain even slowed the ship to a crawl. A few more whales provides a glimpse or two, but it was primarily mother and daughter show.

When we resumed it was BBQ smokies on the sundeck and a bit of a relax.

The afternoon brought clouds and misty fog making for a very coastal experience. Eventually the mist drove us inside to a cup of hot chocolate and/or tea. After tea: nap!

While we were napping the mist turned to rain. We wandered and explored for a bit trying to decide on dinner. Eventually we hit the gift shop for some exercise in commercialism then decided the buffet’s $29 price tag was too steep. It’s only 6:29 and we’ve likely got another 4 hours.

The last four passes quietly with occasional staring out the window, solitude and meandering. We pulled into Prince Rupert at exactly 10:30 and were quickly unloaded and on our way. Separate rooms tonight as I guess we are all tired of each others company 🙂

Night night

Morning. Shower. French toast X3 (2 dry, 1 slathered in butter & syrup). Load and go…

We gassed up in Campbell River and headed north. Pretty soon you veer away from the water and head inland: lots of trees, lots of clear cuts and one less bird. Leslie, who was driving, continued her streak of smashing into tiny flying things with my truck. We think it was a sparrow this time which gives L bonus points for tininess.

The scene of the crime

The tourist booth at Sayward.

The highway is small and windey, but in good shape and all in all not bad for driving so far. A quick stop at Sayward to pick up some brochures led us to decide to stop in Telegraph Cove. A picturesque old salmon saltery, it was well worth a visit. Carmen bought mittens (only her second pair this summer–she’s definitely got her little ‘problem’ under control… I think). We toured around, admired the old buildings on stilts and had beer and lunch. The girls opted for fresh chowders and we nibbled away beneath the bald eagles.

Leaving, Leslie remembered that reverse is also a direction, and we made it ought of the parking lot intact. We pulled out only to see a lumbering black bear just outside of town. First bear of the trip, although we had spotted several small deer. Next stop Port McNeal. Here we found no cheap trinkets and tshirts stores, sigh. We did however show Carmen her first monkey puzzle tree, and it was a beaut! And while C didn’t exactly throw poo at me, she did get a very quizzical expression on her face when she first saw it… Just saying.

There are apparently resident killer whales around here and if we had planned better we would definitely go out for a boat trip; maybe next time.

Port Hardy started with a trip out to the ferry. We need to be there at 5:30 am so we thought we’d scope it out. On the way back we stopped at Bear Cove Park and checked out the coastline. Crabs, eagles, anemones, starfish and more barnacles than a chicken has feathers, it had it all. Carmen, in a novel introduction to marine life, got spit on by a clam. Always love walking the seashore.

Into town we toured around and checked out the facilities. Then we checked in tot the Quarterdeck Inn and Marina and caught a bit of a rest. The Rogers 3G is nonexistent her but the Bell connection on my iPad is working fine–worth the hassle to sign up I guess.

The natives are restless and it’s time to move on. Actually we have a ferry reservation so I had to poke the natives into activity. We packed up an drove the windy road back to Horseshoe Bay. We arrived in plenty of time and hung out waiting for the ferry. After boarding we had a sunny, beautiful trip across Howe Sound to Langdale, just outsider of Gibsons Landing.

The sunshine greeters on the ferry said we’d have plenty of time to make the Earls Cove ferry, so we trucked into Gibsons for some touristy stuff. We parked right behind Molly’s Reach. We took the obligatory pictures and made the obligatory Bruno Gerussi references. It’s a beautiful place. I envy those guys getting to work there for so many years.

Back in the truck we moved on to Sechelt and looked for some quick food. Some sushi and pizza later we piled into the truck and realized that the helpful ferry guide had been a bit misleading; we were gonna be touch and go for the next ferry. I drove like a maniac down the twistiest, turniest roads ever at breakneck speeds. Stupid locals kept doing the speed limit…grrrr.

As we drove down the hill to the ferry dock, there was 1 car and 4 semi’s left to load; 2 semi’s made it and the rest of us were left stranded until the next ferry, 2.5 hours later. Apparently the fell in front of us had been there for 30 minutes, but a traveling amusement park got precedence and he was left behind. The guys who arrived 5 minutes after us were of course the most vocal about their bitterness: typical.

The fellow in front of us left to go back to town for the break and that left us first in line. A couple of games of Flux in the shade, some relaxing and lying around brought 5:30 and the ferry. First on and at the front of the ferry, it was a beautiful crossing. I’ll have to come back in my own boat some day.

From Saltery Bay to Powell River is a short drive. The terrain here isn’t typical lush BC coast. Apparently it doesn’t rain here very often hence the sunshine coast. Powell River wasn’t my favorite town of the trip but it was ok. We checked out the ferry to Comox and the lady laughed and told us to show up 10 minutes before departure. That gave us 1.5 hrs for dinner. Snickers Greek restaurant was slow and our waitress was new, new, new. We didn’t miss our ferry, but we were plenty nervous.

As we waited in line for the ferry, I saw the guy from in front of us, and the grumpy guy from behind all waiting to cross the strait to the island. The ferry sailed at 8:45 into the setting sun and it was peaceful, stunning and a nice way to wind down. The ferry terminal to Courtenay was a quick trip and we pulled into a Best Western, Carmen picked up some rooms and it was lala land for the night.

Today started with a train at 6 am and a really really enjoying bird on our windowsill. After we actually got up we headed into to town for a quick tour and to discover to our dismay the Howe Sound Adventures is actually gone… Sigh, I really like jetsking in Howe Sound.

We then headed off to the Smoke Bluffs (right across the way from the hostel). A short hike in took unto Ferrets Folly but it was occupied by fellow hostelers. We kept going on up to Burgers and Fries. It was empty so we set up on what I thought was ‘Burgers and Fries’. Since I had no idea what was what as I had left the guide books at home, it was pretty much a crap shoot. Turns out we were climbing something else but luckily it was another 5.7.

I lead it in gear but freaked on the slab bit in the last 8 feet and bailed. I walked up and set a toprope and we tried again. Carmen practiced her gear climbing and zipped up the crack and conquered the slab bit that had stymied me. Les did it smoothly and cleanly and it was a clean sweep. We did it again a couple of more times and while I never did the slab bit on lead it was an awesome day.

Eventually we moved over to another cliff face; good thing because the YMCA kids had just shown up. Ferrets Folly provided a bit of crack and a bit of face. The crack (5.7) provided some trad practice and some layback practice. Eventually we tried a bit of the face climbing with a 5.7-5.9 smearing to build up our ego.

We packed up and headed back into town. Carmen decided to invest in her own shoes ( and some other things) and I bought a couple of biners.

Back at the hostel we showered and cooked some chicken on the BBQ. Diner followed with some wine (our last bottle of France: the sauterne), some gossiping, bragging and reminiscing. Tomorrow is up the Sunshine Coast, but frankly, I don’t want to go…

Zak update: he made it to Paris. Also he apparently had an adventure. If he keeps on spending cash on cabs to get out of his adventures he’s gonna be calling soon!

Us

This morning we got up for breakie and decided on the hotel’s cafe. Not really in tune with the clientele; but at least they provided a fancy side of fruit with their 2 pieces of French bread for $12. And they helpfully cut up Carmen’s banana!

Eventually we got the truck packed up and were on the road. I think everybody is sick of moving pretty much every night. Well it’s 2 nights in Squamish (or SQ Amish) as Carmen has taken to calling it) before we move on and if we are willing to drive long, we could stay for free. By the weekend we’ll be in Prince Rupert and I think we will settle down somewhere for am longer haul.

The drive to Squamish was awesome as always and the new highway makes it much more pleasant. Too pleasant I think as it’s really not a slow scenic drive anymore. Anyway we turned off at Murrin Park and Sugarloaf was deserted so we unpacked the gear and hiked up to climb.

These are all 5.4, 5.5 gear routes and a lot of fun. I got in about 5 or 6 gear leads and Leslie and Carmen both got a chance to toprope and clean the gear. We tried one route a bunch of times before moving over and trying something a bit harder. Oddly enough the harder route suited Carmen and she zipped up it.

Afterward dirty and tired we hit the White Spot for Halibut, burgers and beer (cider for Les of course) full and content we the hostel, checked in and I wimped out for a shower. A rousing couple of games of crib and it was time for bed.

Day 4 started, and I was alone. Les and Carm went off to the book symposium and I slept in. After a chat with my parents I walked to the White Spot and did some Eggs Benedict. A scoot over to Granville island found me touring the docks again.

Cooper boats offers some 5 day, on the water training and I might just come back later in the summer. Later I meandered back downtown in search of a haircut, some pizza and some new sandals. Eventually I found a teenburger and some sandals, but for a big city, Vancouver has a sandal shortage.

Around 5 I met up with the goils and we headed off to Sears so Carmen could get her specs repaired … Again.

Then we hit a wine bar for some tapas and snobby wine. Eventually we headed down to W Pender, caught a bus to Stanley Park and walked the seawall. One seal and a bunch of eagles later we caught the bus, then the train later we were back home for the night.

Instead of going to our rooms we opted for beer, cheesecake and spicy almonds. Then it was sleep time.

Zzzzzzzzz.